The Rock of Cashel and Bishop King Cormac McCarthy’s Chapel

“The Rock of Cashel” does not refer to that cluster of buildings constructed on top of the rock: St. Patrick’s Cathedral, the Round Tower (one of the finest in Ireland), the Vicar’s Choral or the beautiful Bishop-King Cormac McCarthy’s Chapel.

No, the Rock of Cashel refers directly to the gigantic lump of limestone which rises out of the lush plains of Tipperary (the Vale) and upon which all of the ancient buildings have been sited.

early unknown artist’s rendering

I captured this image on the way up the hill toward the complex early in the morning before the gates were opened.

I wanted to get there before the tour buses arrived, and as a result of my fortitude, I had nearly 45 minutes completely alone up there, on top of that wind swept Rock, strolling the perimeter and absorbing the energies of my ancestors who had lived, ruled, and been buried there.

Cattle grazing below the rock just to the Northwest

Hore Abbey
founded by Cistercian monks in 1272 is off to the Southwest, just below the Rock

As we look east across the face of the Rock

we come to understand that the land in this heart of Munster is rich, filled with limestone and other minerals.

It is almost possible to understand why the High King of the O’Brien clan donated it to the Catholic Church. He hoped to put an end to its function as a fortification and through his gifting, curry favor enough to win the right to keep it as part of his holdings, as “manager” for the Church. The O’Brien’s, by the way, had come into possession of the Rock after Carthage (MacCarthy), King of all the Eoghanacht and ruler of Cashel in 1045, was treacherously burned alive in his bed.

The O’Briens expected the Bishops to prevent the MacCarthy’s, then the most powerful (and historians say, most benevolent; for example, they did not exact tribute) of the clans in Munster, from going to war with them and winning it back.

Their plan, however, had an ironic twist to it when Cormac McCarthy, who was both a Bishop and a King was appointed to the Cathedral. He rose swiftly to power in the early 1100’s, building his magnificent chapel during his reign.
Cormac’s Chapel

The Rock had been the seat of the High Kings of Munster for centuries. Brian Boru was crowned here in 977 and there is archaeological evidence that the Rock was used as a center for High Chieftains of Ireland as far back as the 4th century.

This is significant because of the buildings we see there now, the Round Tower is the oldest and it was not constructed until around 1100 A.D.

The Round Tower, at 28 meters high, is also the tallest building on the Rock. St. Patrick’s Cathedral, standing right next to it was not begun until 1235, 135 years later.

The South facing entrance to St. Patrick’s Cathedral

Next, we see the Cathedral’s castle style fortification, which was not added until the 14th century.

Notice how close the buildings are to one another? Literally inches away. This is because of the limited space on top of that rock–the stonemasons had to be skillful.

Inside the Cathedral, looking up

Also inside, looking up. And out!

It’s interesting to know that this Cathedral was laid out in an aisle-less cruciform, which is quite unusual.

On one wall we find the man the Cathedral was built to honor

accompanied by a couple of Bishops doing their thing.

This 16th century nave and stonework comes just around the time the Rock is attacked (1647)by English Parliamentarian troops under Murrough O’Brien, 1st Earl of Inchiquin. The English troops destroyed the structures and stole everything of value, including priceless antiquities, in their greed.

I love these carvings, with their proud animal motifs, which somehow managed to survive

As I move forward on my Pilgrimage, it seems important to visit places where the McCarthy’s lived and loved.

I began with this Rock. It is a way of getting in touch with my mother’s side of my soul.

And what a wonder Cormac MacCarthy created to feed all of our souls.

His chapel is a unique example of Romanesque architecture due to it’s twin towers on either side with their strong Germanic influence, interior and exterior arcading, barrel-vaulted roof, carved tympanum over both doorways, magnificent North doorway and chancel arch, and now, those recently discovered colorful frescos hidden for centuries(!) after having been painted over by Protestant religious reform leaders who decided they were too exuberant, and therefore sinful.

Here it is

The Chancel Arch

close up of the fresco work look closely, you can see a face in the middle
grotesques

and look at these arches. wow!

Here’s some of those carved tympanum to marvel over

and look up there!
closer….

And then we come upon the resting place of the King, the Bishop, the MacCarthy himself. Except that he’s no longer there. The tomb has been opened and his bones and ashes….No idea.

Bishop King Cormac McCarthy

“I am an offspring of the dead… My ancestors are the illustrious multitudes of the defunct, grand and innumerable. My lineage is longer than time.”
― Thomas Ligotti

And that’s one of the things you come to understand on Pilgrimage.

Blessed Be