March 31
The storm lasted all day yesterday and well into the evening. When it finally broke, I headed outside to stretch my legs. Birds were singing again. The air had a funny smell: a mix of pine tar, cat urine, with a sweet floral undertone. The ground was soaked; the sand and dirt drive a flooded mess.
I dodged pools of water, stepped through soaking grasses, made my way to the catfish ponds to see if the water level had risen visibly. It had. I read this morning that this storm system is vile. Tornadoes, hail storms with hail big enough to damage vehicles—or heads. Some people died. A roof collapsed, or was blown off, at a high school about thirty miles from here. Several teens died.
There’s a break right now so I’m going to hike while I can. The second wave is predicted to hit around 1:00 pm this afternoon, last a few days.
I dress for the weather. Head on out. Take a new path through Larry’s land, one which skirts the forest itself, then cuts into it.
The forest is dense here with brush and undergrowth.
Very few wildflowers are out and most of what are have been beaten to a pulp. I do see several of these
I stumble upon the remains of this critter. Likely someone bigger’s dinner.
The smell changes the deeper I go into the forest. It’s wet, ripe, earthen. Not green. Dank.
Eventually, the trail I’m on becomes too much for me. I’d need a machete to hack through here. I turn back. Come upon a little used lane cutting through the trees. Follow it into a clearing, well mowed, where this still sits.
I believe I’ve come upon Larry’s moonshine kettle.
I continue on through, end up back on a different trail which eventually takes me toward the catfish ponds. Larry’s dogs start barking and howling at me from across the way, startled at seeing a stranger strolling through their turf. I hear Larry shout, “Leave it!”
A few minutes later, a beautiful, young Springer Spaniel comes racing from behind me so fast and so quiet I let out a yelp of surprise. She is friendly. Happy. This is her later, at my camp
Behind her comes her companion, a rusty tan hound with the best blonde eyebrows I’ve ever seen on a dog. He is also friendly.
They accompany me awhile, then bound off to do whatever it is they’re usually do in this doggie paradise.
A few minutes later, I hear Larry fire up his 4 wheeler and sure enough, a minute or two after that, he appears. Only it isn’t his four-wheeler after all. It’s an ancient roll bar mower in excellent mechanical condition.
“I saw yuh walking down that trail earlier and I han’t mowed it yet. Yuh must have got yer legs wet up to the knees.”
I laugh. “It wasn’t that bad. As you can see, my hiking boots are pretty wet but they’ll dry. And so will these pants.”
He turns off the engine and settles in for a chat.
I learn that his family homesteaded this “whole area round here” in 1836.
“We cut it, we cleared it, created them ponds for fishin’, about everthin’ yuh can think of.”
“Were you born here?” I ask.
He snorts.
“Born here and will die here. We all was. I’m one of eight. My daddy was one of seventeen. Two sets of twins, she bore. Three of ‘em died but she raised the rest. She lived to 93 though. Worked hard her whole life. I’m gonna be buried over yonder, on my own land, in our cemetery with the rest of my family.”
He adjusts his hat. This one says, Trump 2024. He’s wearing a nice tan and blue flannel shirt, long sleeves buttoned against insects, grey canvas pants. Some kind of rubber shoe which looks a bit like a Birkenstock if Birks were industrial strength.
He launches into a story about how his family used to meet every year for a reunion, which he personally has never missed, but his brother chose to go to a football game this year instead of attending.
“The young ‘uns ain’t interested anymore in that kind of thing. It’s a bad thing, the way things are changin’.”
I share how I used to be the one to organize our family reunions, but after my mom, then dad, died, I lost heart.
“I told my sister she was going to have to organize the next one,” I say, “but I think we may have had our last.
Somehow, we segue into a discussion about work ethics. How nobody wants to work anymore.
“All these young white men around here, they just want to collect welfare,” he says.
This surprises me, because a moment ago, his response to my telling him how my daughter had a lot of school debt accrued while studying to be a Physician’s Assistant, was “Yeah. She’s the wrong color. That’s what that is.”
I didn’t comment.
I tell him about my friend, Tenphel, a Tibetan who works very hard. About the business he works for, owned by Chinese Americans, who only hires Asians.
“They all work very hard,” I say. “Twelve, fourteen-hour days. I think if you want hard workers, you might want to hire immigrants. While we still have the chance. Before they’re all kicked out.”
I realize I’m treading on delicate ground here. Wait to see how he’ll respond.
“Yeah. You probly right. Whites don’t wanna work no more. Blacks, neither. I ‘magine immigrants might be the way to go. Course ya gotta teach ‘em, and that takes time. And time means money. Nobody can afford that.”.
We move on to talking about the Conecuh forest, which his property sits in the middle of.
“Those ponds used to be fed by a spring. Gave out 5 gallons per minute. Clearest water you ever saw. But after they logged all those trees, the spring gave out. We din’t know no better but we do now. Those ponds only get rainwater now.
“And that forest is growing back. Course you caint shoot you a deer legal anymore, because now someone is feeding ‘em in they yard and they’s protected. And we used to have us some good dove hunts. But you caint shoot them no more, neither, cuz someone’s got a feeder and is feedin’ em and they’s protected, too.
“And I don’t care. It’s on my land, I’m gonna do what I want. They got these drones now, flyin’ overhead. Checkin’ on everthing you doin’. One day, my granddaughter was out in that grassy area I know you seen, and a buck come in, and I shot it. We et it. Don’t waste a bit. And this drone was flyin’ right above and yuh could hear it’s sound. I almost shot it. I ain’t afraid to go to jail for shootin’ no drone.”
“Yeah, I don’t like those drones, either.” I say, by way of commiseration. “I think technology has become so advanced we’re in for some not so positive changes.”
“Yuh got that right. Now they can even tell what yer thinkin. I was over t’Wing. We got us a group of old ‘uns that meet ever morning. Drink coffee. Chat the way old ‘uns do, y’ know. And I was saying I needed a new propeller for my boat. Said I wasn’t sure if I should by a good, stainless steel one, spend the money, you know, or just buy a cheap aluminum one and replace it when it broke. And I didn’t have my cell phone on me, neither. And when I got home, I picked up my phone to make a call, and you know what? They was ads for boat propellers poppin’ up on my Facebook feed all that day.
“Now, we need us technology. They made sure of that. We caint live without it no more. Not really. But I do believe the absolute worst thing that happened to humanity is the creation of the television. Cuz that’s whut led to the computers. And they is worse.”
I smile. Share how I’d gone to a talk in Seattle about ten years ago when I was still working and the speaker was a woman who made millions by helping create the internet.
“She told us that she won’t let her own children have cell phones,” I say, “because she knows they’re bad for us. She also said she traded in her own cell phone for an older flip phone with no wireless.”
I laugh, drip some irony. “But here I am, using mine to take pictures, check out the weather.”
“Good thing you checkin’ on that weather. Cuz we got another brace of bad weather comin’ in this afternoon.”
I tell him how I’d been counting the length of the thunder. He thinks that’s hilarious. Laughs heartily.
“I’m from Oregon,” I defend myself good naturedly. “We don’t often get thunder like this. It’s both beautiful and a bit overwhelming.”
“Tell you what,” Larry says, a non sequiter, “ You like boiled shrimp?”
“I do.”
“Well, why’nt yuh come along for supper an I’ll fix yuh some boiled shrimp, some beans and rice. Maybe even fry up a catfish.”
“Wow!” I say, “That sounds delicious. What can I bring? I have limited supplies but I have a lot of mandarin oranges I could contribute.”
“Naw. You don’t bring nuthin. Just a good appetite.”
“Well, I can do that,” I laugh. “By the way, what’s your wife’s name? I missed it yesterday.”
“Marie. But she don’t talk much. She’s got the dementia now. She may smile at yuh but don’t be put off iff’n she don’t speak up. She don’t even member her own kids anymore. I got to keep a watch on ‘er. Last night she put the ice cream in the cupboard. I found it all melted this mornin’.”
“I’m so sorry,” I say. “I know that’s hard. You know, my once mother-in-law, she’s dead now, had dementia. She’d known me for twenty years. One day, she said to me, you look like someone I should know. And I answered, I am. I’m Nyla, Eileen. She laughed, then said to me, Well there’s one good thing about losing my memory—and that’s that I forget who I’m mad at.”
Larry likes that. He smiles. “That’s a good thing to ‘preciate. Okay, yuh come on over about 11:30 or so. See that building way cross there, back behind my house?”
He points to his homestead area. Cookhouse is behind this barn.
“Yuh can jest see the roof. That’s my cook house. Yuh come on there. We’ll have us a lunch.”
He readjusts his hat, setting Trump straight, puts the mower in gear, heads off to mow the lane.
At 11:30 it’s raining pretty hard, following the early arrival of the thunder and lightning. I pack up a dozen ginger snaps I’ve been hoarding, slip them in the pocket of my rain jacket, put on hat, walk across the fields, skirting mud sinks and puddles.
When I’m about a hundred yards from the cook house, my cell phone rings. It startles me because I didn’t think I had a signal. It’s Larry.
“Whyn’t yuh drive that little car of yourn up the drive, park it in my barn. It’s raining purty hard.”
I laugh. “Larry, I’m almost there. I’m walking.”
“Well, that yuh are. I can see yuh now. Come on in.”
The cookhouse is comfortable, well used. Well loved. Antique rifles hand upon the walls next to mounted deer heads. Three large Terrapin Turtle shells, polished to a glossy finish, are displayed on a table filled with this and that. I notice one rifle standing upright with a lampshade on it. Larry notices me notice it. I want to photograph everything in here, it’s a time capsule and it’s interesting. But I know that would be rude. So I don’t.
“That there is my Granddaddies ole Remington. I made a floor lamp out of it.” He turns it on and off to prove it.
I notice Marie shaking her head. I smile, tell him it’s really unique.
The table is set with paper plates, paper towels, paper cups. A big stainless kettle sits in the center, filled with a gumbo he’s made using boiled shrimp, whole red potatoes, onions, black beans, some sausage they made from a hog they raised. A pan of fried catfish, coated in cornmeal, sits next to it. There’s a third pan. This one has hush puppies, fried zuchinni, corn coblets
. The feast
“Yuh want co-cola or sweet tea to drink?” he asks. Continues, “I make it not as sweet cuz I’m tryin to cut back on the sugar. I’ve had me two heart attacks, an aneurism, and I got six stints keepin my blood flowin. I’m 84 and I figger maybe cuttin’ down on the sugar might be a good thing.”
“Maybe not so much fried food…”Marie says quietly.
I smile.
“Yeah, my cardiologist tells me to stop fryin’ things, but its whut I know how to do. I’m healthy as a horse now.”
And he does look surprisingly fit.
I wondered how old he was but thought it rude to ask. I’d have guessed mid 70’s. He’s slim, his face is weathered from sun but doesn’t have a lot of wrinkles. His arms are tanned and about as age spotted as my own. 84 is impressive given how I’ve seen him riding a dirt bike at high speeds across the land and how spry he is.
Marie, I find out, is five years younger. Hard country life seems to agree with them. Except for that fried food/heart situation.
“Shall we say grace?” Larry asks.
He offers up a short, simple, prayer of thanks for the bounty before us and for the chance to share with new friends. I am touched.
“Amen.” We all say together. Then start dishing up our plates.
I try to engage Marie now that she’s spoken
“So Marie, how did you and Larry meet?
“Oh, that was a long time ago,” she deflects.
Well done, Marie, I think. I try another tactic.
“Did you grow up around here?
This sparks something in her.
“No, I’m from Bretton. I grew up there.”
Larry interjects.
“Yuh grew up here. That’s how I met yuh. Yuh moved here in the sixth grade.”
She looks at him a touch defiantly. “It was the seventh grade.”
“Right yuh are. I member now. Yuh was ony 13.”
I ask her, “Do you have any brothers or sisters?”
She is very proud , “There’s four of us girls and four boys.”
I smile. “Were your brothers nice or did they bully you? Brothers sometimes do, I know.”
She defends her family.
“No. My brothers was allays nice to me. They din’t try to steal my toys or push me outta chairs nor none of that.”
“That’s wonderful,” I enthuse. Then switch to, “This food is really good. It’s so nice of you two to invite me to share a meal with you. Hot food! What a treat. And catfish from your own pond.”
I take a bite. “This is better than what I had at a restaurant in De Funiak Springs for lunch the other day before I crossed into Alabama.”
And it is. Not as muddy tasting. Not oily. Light and crispy.
Larry looks pleased.
We discuss his history some more because Marie seems to check out a bit. I imagine she’s heard this a hundred times but to me, its fascinating stuff.
He shares how hard they’ve tried to make a go of living off their land. They raised Black Angus until the cattle market went down. They built a motocross track and hosted races, which netted them pretty good money in entrance fees for a while.
I notice Marie frowning when he mentions the moto-cross.
“Not a fan?” I ask her.
“Too loud,” she says, emphatically. “Too many people.”
Larry laughs.
“Yeah, after that we got into raising Cockatoos. We made good money on that for three or four years. 60,000 a year and our costs was only about 23.”
When a corporation bought out the distributor they sold to, they moved onto raising soybeans. Then the market went out on soybeans. Raised horses. Caught him a wild stud from the forest and bred him to some Arabian mares he picked up at auction.
“I love horses.” He says. But they’s just too much work after awhile. And nobody wants to pay what’s they worth.
Marie nods.
“We raised catfish commercially for a lot of years. Made purty good money there,” Larry says, “until the restaurants started buying ‘em frozen from China for cheaper than local. I finally had to open my own mill-I still got the saw an all-and logged me some of our land. That kept us goin. Now…..well, we git by. I do some mechanic stuff for folks around here. Fix some things. Rent out that space you in once in t’while. Heck, I had me some people stay for a month and they paid $450 cash.”
Marie stands up. Moves over to the sink. I see that mostly she’s restless, there aren’t really any dishes to do. But she wipes down the counter. Sits back down.
I introduce the ginger snaps.
“I brought these ginger snaps thinking we might have them for dessert.” I say. Add, “You’ll either like them or hate them, I think. Some people don’t like the strong taste. I do.”
“What’s a ginger snap?” Larry asks.
It never occurred to me that anyone wouldn’t be familiar with a ginger snap. Now there’s a rural regional difference for you.
“It’s a cookie made with ginger and molasses. I didn’t make these, I’m sorry. I don’t have an oven in my little trailer.” I laugh.
Marie speaks up again.
“That’s a real cute little trailer. I like how it matches your car.”
I hand her a ginger snap. Notice it’s not very crispy anymore.
“Well, it seems my ginger snaps have lost their snap,” I joke. “This wet weather has had it way with them.”
Marie takes a bite.
“I like it,” she says.
Larry, reassured by her response, picks one up. Takes a bite. Says to Marie,
“Yeah. This is purty good.”
Says to me, “I think I’m glad it don’t snap. I like it soft like this.”
And we finish up the twelve snaps between us, me only eating two.
Marie goes into the main house to get her a co-cola, she says.
Larry and I manage to discuss politics. He likes what Elon Musk is doing for our country. He believes there’s too much waste in government spending.
“Folks like us, we don’t see none of that,” he says.
I tell him I don’t like Musk. Think he’s a criminal and maybe even dangerous.
He laughs.
I tell him that the fact that he’s getting paid we don’t know how much and never will because he’s on a contract that he doesn’t ever have to divulge is worrisome.
“There’s some of your government waste,” I say, peeling another shrimp and popping it in my mouth.
“I reckon all politics is corrupt,” Larry says.”I don’t think we’ve had a honorable one since Reagan.”
I try not to choke on my shrimp.
He switches to inviting me to use the toilet in their original cabin, which is a ways from my camp.
“If’n yuh don’t want to do that, yuh might wanna just have a look. Marie decorated it real purty when she was able to do that sorta thing.”
And she did.
I wander over after our meal and see that while it’s rustic outside, it’s sweet, cozy, dry.Larry cut the trees, sawed the wood, built the cabin. I wonder why they don’t live in it. Frankly, its nicer than the one they’re in now.
Maybe because its smaller.
But it certainly is homey.
Then, I discover why it’s called Apple Hill. Marie has a thing for apples.
Meeting Marie and Larry helps me understand the mindset of those who believe the Mega way is better. They are hard working, back to the land people for whom the government has not provided much. They buy the line that liberal ideology is corrupt and costing them out of their own pocket.
Larry has no social security and no pension beyond what he’s earned and continues to earn.
They are proud people and believe you work for what you need. For some reason, they are of the belief that Trump will make life simpler and more fair for folks like them, and if he and his cronies get rich while doing it, well, to them, its just more of what’s always been happening.
While I don’t agree with them, seeing their life up close, the roots of such thinking begin to make sense
If we’re going to be successful in saving our democracy, we are going to have to find a way to connect with, then engage folks like Larry and Marie in ways they understand and will believe.
I found Larry willing to engage in dialogue, share his beliefs, and discuss the hard topics with me rationally. We even found enough in common for him to trust me, open his home and private spaces to me, tell me he enjoyed getting to know someone like me. He sounded sincere when he told me he hoped I would return.